Some thoughts on and reactions to the decay in Philadelphia as seen by train:
As we approached Philadelphia, I had to put down the notebook in which I’d been jotting down observations. A child of the suburbs, I had never seen anything like the ghetto of north Philadelphia before. I struggled to think of a framework to make sense of what I was seeing, but all I could think of was war. The windows were blown out of old factories, jagged glass teeth in gaping mouths. Thorny vines clawed up their sides. On some buildings, graffiti covered almost every square inch. The holes in their sagging roofs revealed rusty manufacturing equipment and mounds of trash.
The skeletal remains of neighborhoods sat side-by-side with these industrial graveyards. Houses with missing or boarded-up windows outnumbered those that were occupied. Some looked burned. One out of every five showed some sign of habitation — a drawn curtain or a protruding air conditioner. I didn’t see any cars on the streets.
I found the abandonment appalling and fascinating. There were so many mysteries along the tracks. Who scrawled the angry, bubble gum graffiti on that crumbling wall? What did that old factory produce, and why did it close? Who lives in this ground zero of a neighborhood? I switched quickly between staring out the window and scribbling everything down in my notebook.
We neared the center of Philadelphia and exited the ghetto. But it would emerge again a couple of hours later in Baltimore. This time I was more prepared for it, and I started to notice things other than the buildings. Like the fact that I could count on one hand the amount of people I saw on the streets. It felt like there had been a massive evacuation, followed by an aerial bombing, and no one had returned. Far from the interstate, the ghetto received little through-traffic. I wondered if being out of sight of the highway kept these areas looking the way they did. Far more people travel by car than by train. If more people saw these neglected places, would they stay the way they are? (from http://bygonebureau.com/2010/04/23/northeast-corridor)
As a complement, from David Lynch: ”…when I was there it was a very sick, twisted, violent, fear-ridden, decadent, decaying place.”
All true, but it is a city of great beauty and culture, as well as home to some of the best food in the country. It is a city of contradictions.



